An insider’s guide to Mexico City: Aztec hearts in a sinking city

In five words

Aztec-hearted, sinking city of jacarandas.

Sound of the city

Mexico City one of the biggest cities in the world. This means constant traffic and people always on the move. Vendors on the streets provide food and distractions to bored drivers at stop signs and in traffic jams. It’s a cacophony of police cars, ambulances, construction workers and loud music – all of this mere metres away from wonderful gardens such as Chapultepec or Viveros of Coyoacán, calm residential areas, and hidden cafes. Mexico City is happening all at once, and then not at all.

Everyone’s tuning into …

Club de Cuervos is the first-ever spanish-language Netflix production. A story that is seemingly about family feuds and football (two crucial parts of Mexico City life) is in reality about much more.

Cuervos is a fresh take on Mexican identity, as it tackles head-on some serious issues such as values, corruption, misogyny and family. Netflix has found a huge market in the latino community thanks to the chilango director Gary Alazraky’s authentic take on the humour and story.

Best venue?

Whether it’s hosting the biggest Barbie collection in Mexico, or the Guinness World Record Harry Potter memorabilia collection, the MUJAM toy museum has a little bit for everyone. The museum itself feels like a surreal kitsch labyrinth.

Its motto – “live objects for living people” – seems to resonate exactly with both visitors and artists. They are constantly working with graffiti artists to create huge murals all over the city, and inside their doors concerts, conferences, workshops, gatherings, readings, bazaars and many other events are always taking place.

Who’s top of the playlist?

Rey Pila are a young and hip band, experimenting with writing songs in English. It’s a collaboration between Mexican DJs who are more in touch with the party and younger scene than other, better-known bands such as that epitome of chilango music, Café Tacuba.

Best local artist

Chulatheclown is a clown. She tells stories. She is a Mexican woman who has given the clown movement a new and beautiful voice. With her whimsical aesthetic, Chula transports us to a magical world with her shows, performances and visual artistry.

The look on the street

Street style in Mexico City ranges from the chicest to the most urban. Defeños (since Mexico City is known as DF – Distrito Federal – locals are called defeños) try to express themselves through their clothes. There is a “box” for almost everyone: cholos, fresas, hipsters, godinez, pachucos, pachecos, to name a few.

Everyone’s talking about …

Governmental corruption and the dire state of Mexican politics, which translates into a bad economy and an unhappy society. President Peña Nieto’s spending, his perceived inability to do the right thing, plus insecurity and bad management have all created a more active society and a more informed youth. In general, there’s a strong desire to make things right again.

Best cultural Instagram

The self-appointed “Instagram of Mexico City” (@mexicodf) seems to be just that: an eclectic collection of the moments, people and colours that show off this amazing city. This account represents what we’re proud of: our orange monster, el metro; as well as our food, architecture, art and mexicaneidades (all those little details that make us Mexican, and proud of it!)

What Mexico City does better than anywhere else

Albures. Although there is not an actual translation, the closest thing to describe albures would be double entendre, often with a sexual connotation. An albur is a way of making fun of a friend, of teasing. It can be done so subtly that, unless you are from Mexico City, you might never get that you are being albureado. And there lies all the fun of albures: the hardest ones are the best (albur intended).

As a tourist visiting Mexico City, if someone tries to teach you an albur, you know you are part of the gang.

Comedy gold

Galatzia is a Mexican comedian who catapulted to fame with his YouTube channel, and who talks about things he hates. His sarcastic and honest approach to Mexican daily life is a hit not only with younger audiences, but with older generations as well. Even though he is not Mexico City based, he is the most talked about comedian in the city, and often talks about DF and things that we chilangos do.

Moment from history

The explosion of the muralist movement. More than just an artistic expression, it was a congregation of minds and talent the likes of which the capital had never seen before. The common goal of the movement: to move beyond the Mexican revolution and progress, culturally speaking.

Diego Rivera, Clemente Orozco and David Siqueiros may be the most famous muralists, both nationally and internationally speaking, but some of their influencees, such as Frida Kahlo, José Vasconcelos, Nahui Olin, went on to branch out immensely, in differently fields (painting, education and an artist, respectably). The impact of this movement is still being felt today.

Best street art

Street art is gaining strength each day, and great pieces of art pop up almost every day. But one of the biggest moments so far was when Dhear, a Mexican graffiti artist, alongside MUJAM and the Secretary of Health (the first collaboration between a street artist and the government in decades), transformed one of the humongous walls at the Homeopathic National Hospital. This is now a protected mural.

About me

Cynthia is a passionate writer, traveler and eater. She has collaborated with several magazines and books, both writing and editing. She tweets @chintilu.

Five to follow

Purpura

Me lo dijo Lola

Mexicoindie

Mex and the City

Grace Navarro